for Electric Vehicle Conversion
using the Wilderness Highway Kit
To begin this process, go over kit components list and familiarize
yourself with the parts.
engine from vehicle.
tank and gas lines
and cooling system components
unneeded electrical wiring
Measuring and Sizing the adapter plate and shaft coupler:
components that you receive in your kit are generic and are designed
to work with most manual transmissions.
components requires a little extra work but are very versatile and
have been installed in hundreds of different vehicles. With this
generic kit a blank adapter plate and a custom made shaft coupler
have made to work on many different vehicles such as a Datsun pickup,
Honda CRX 2 door, MG Midget, Isuzu pickup truck, Honda Civic
hatchback and others.
must have machining experience or work with someone who has in order
to use this generic kit. (We will not be machining any custom part
for this kit.)
of the part is a simple process to match the shaft coupler that we
send you with either the fly wheel for the vehicle or the clutch
plate for the vehicle.
clutch plate from the vehicle will be used for your conversion if you
intend to have a clutch-less setup; or you will have a part machined
that matches your flywheel. The motor is mounted to the adaptor plate
and the shaft coupler set at the right distance on the motor shaft
using the key pin and set screws so as to get maximum alignment of
the splines with the clutch plate. The motor assembly then can be
slid on the transmission shaft splines and clamped to the
bell-housing. Paint is sprayed through the bolt holes around the bell
housing, or as scribing tool is used to mark their locations. The
plate is removed and holes are drilled that match the transmission
bell housing. The assembly is then bolted to the transmission and the
mechanical work is completed. The plate measures 15" diameter
for extra width for the wider bell housing transmissions.
can also connect directly to the rear differential of your vehicle
through the U-joints if you have a light weight enough (under 3,000
lbs). The 10 inch motor included in your kit is the only motor that
we offer with enough torque to accelerate a vehicle from 0 mph with
out a transmission. When doing this method of installing the motor,
you will want to have the maximum gear ration possible in the
differential. This method also pulls much higher amperage when
accelerating from 0 miles per hour, thus the need for a lighter
weight vehicle. This method is not recommended for pickup trucks if
you intend to drive the freeway much.
Installing the Motor
Using a floor jack or engine
hoist, lift motor and slide onto transmission shaft. Rotate slightly
to mesh the splines in the transmission shaft to the coupler. Slide
motor plate assembly flush against transmission bell housing. Put in
the four or more bolts or nuts around bell housing and tighten
finger tight. You want to make sure that the motor/adapter
plate/coupler is flush against the transmission bell housing. Make
sure that the motor shaft and transmission shaft will not hit each
other leaving 1/8' to a 1/4" gap.
important to make sure there is no side stress on the shaft coupler,
or there will be excessive motor vibration. Our warranty does not
cover improper alignment issues. As mentioned above you must not
tighten the bolts fully (only finger tight) until the coupler is
aligned to true center. This is done by rocking the vehicle back and
forth while in gear (usually 2nd
gear), and observing the far end of the motor to make sure there is
absolutely no wobble on the back end of the motor. Adjust the jack
height up and down, and tap plate side to side as needed. Do not put
extra pressure from the jack, on the motor. Then after the bolts are
tightened, spin up the motor to about 1/4 speed (never go more than
half throttle in neutral!) and observe that there is no vibration,
that the motor spins smooth. A good way to tell if it’s aligned
correctly is that there will be no vibration on the gear shift handle
when starting out at very low speeds. If it vibrates the bolts need
to be loosened and the alignment process repeated. With practice
this process becomes very easy, we call this “dialing in the
3. Installing the
Build battery racks in the
vehicle or install pre-assembled battery racks. Mount rear battery
rack behind or under back seat and bolt or weld to car frame.
Additional batteries for the vehicle can be added in the gas tank
compartment by removing the gas tank or cutting off the top of the
tank (Make SURE it is cleaned, or fill with water first). The best
material to build battery racks out of is 1.5 inch angle iron, 1/8th
inch thick. The batteries should be installed in a ratio front to
back that preserves the manufacturer's recommendation of weight
distribution from front to rear axle. You will also want to make
clamps or straps with your battery racks that will hold the
batteries down. Many people like to have an insulated box around
their batteries to protect them in cold weather. This box can also
have an exhaust fan added to remove gases when charging wet cell
lead acid batteries. This is not needed with sealed or lithium
batteries. Consult the battery manufacturers information as to
specifics regarding the battery orientation and their installation.
4. Large Cable
Run the large #2/0 Ga. cable
from back to front if using more batteries than can fit in the
engine compartment. Go under rear seat and between front seats and
through the firewall or under the vehicle through tubing. Make sure
one cable is marked with red on both ends for the (+) positive
terminal. Sometimes you can go through the a/c tubing holes in the
firewall. Secure the cable to the frame or chassis.
5. Throttle Box
Install the PB5 throttle box
in engine compartment. Its easiest to use self-tapping screws and
secure it right to the inside of the firewall. Make sure you don't
screw into your already placed batteries behind the seat. Attach "L"
bracket the correct distance from the throttle box to mount the
throttle cable sleeve. Attach cable to throttle box and adjust for
proper range of travel. You want to make sure that you get a full
90 degree sweep on the throttle box to get full acceleration. (So
that the metal swing arm hits the metal stop). Depending upon the
stiffness of the throttle pedal cable, you may want to add an extra
spring to pull the metal swing arm completely back to the stop
6. Assembling controller
controller, contactor, fuse, and shunt in an appropriate location in
engine compartment. It is best to keep parts as close together as
possible to make for short cable connections. Follow included
schematics and pictures for best locations. It is a good idea to
mount all of this on an aluminum plate before installing it in the
vehicle. This gives you better heat transfer from the controller and
makes it much easier to assemble the components.
amp meter and volt meter in appropriate location on or near the dash.
We usually mount them in front of the fuel and temperature gauges.
They can also be mounted in place of the fuel and temperature gauges
but the point is they need to be easily seen. The amp meter is the
most important one that you need to see when maximizing your range
8. Battery Jumpers
heavy #2/0 Ga. wire cables using high current ring terminals or
battery cable terminals. There will be eight, plus a few more
depending on your battery setup:
consult the wiring diagram for controller and the motor. Connect up
all these cables. Build battery to battery jumpers using battery
cable terminals it is a good idea to wrap each one of these cable
ends with electrical tape. Connect batteries together. For the last
connection, it is important to just tap the battery terminal with the
cable . With a controller you may get an initial short spark, but
only one. If arching occurs, re-check wiring for correct polarity.
Always make sure there is a fuse installed before doing this!The
Alltrax controller will also blink red if wired improperly. The
Curtis controller will not. With the WildernessEV controller, the
indicator light will come on when it is wired correctly.
9. Small Wiring
the light gauge wire to amp meter and volt meter. Wire contactor to
12 volt accessory battery system through the key ignition switch. It
is important NOT to wire the contactor in with the main battery pack.
The voltage sag will cause the contactor to chatter and can destroy
parts. Install 12 VDC accessory battery in existing battery rack (use
deep cycle 100+ Amp Hour battery for best performance). Connect to
existing wiring in vehicle. Wire the 5-k throttle box and key-on
connections according to the schematic. The vehicle can now be
tested. Make sure it is in neutral with parking brake applied or on
jack-stands when testing for the first time. Never stand in front of
the vehicle during this test!
10. Installing the
Wire the main charger (72 -
120 VDC) to battery pack. Wire auxiliary charger (12 VDC) to
accessory battery. It is very important to observe polarity, RED
being postive (+), and BLACK being negative (-). You may need to
run a cable pair from front to rear of the vehicle to accommodate
these chargers. Wire these two chargers together and to a charger
port, usually located in front of vehicle, or in small gas tank
compartment door. These two chargers are designed for on-board
applications and should be mounted securely as a permanent
installation. After test driving the vehicle, plug in and recharge.
with a Gas Motor,
Never! Never apply power to the motor without a load!!!
the motor in Neutral) You will blow the motor and the warranty WILL
NOT cover it!
Please, see Q&A, Videos, and Mechanic's Blog for more information.
to the family of EV Drivers.
are now part of the Solution!